GA Benton
This is kind of a “Bury the Lede” story, so I won’t: ‘Plas eat + drink is on the shortlist for the best new Columbus restaurant.
As the strange name suggests – “’Plas” is a self-created slang for mise en place, a French expression that describes a chef’s cooking station, which is “everything in its place”. It’s an upscale restaurant that successfully aims to have fun and not be fussy.
Yes, ‘Plas has a labor-intensive, French- and Italian-influenced cooking ethic that translates into homemade cheese, pasta, sausages, and bread. But unlike a confidently fancy restaurant, ‘Plas fuses its handcrafted sensibility with a rustic farm-to-table style that I sometimes refer to as the “wine country aesthetic”. This casual sophistication is reflected in the “Plas” ambience.
‘Plas presents high quality ingredients, friendly atmosphere
Assuming the Short North address, once claimed by The Table – and offering an attractive, secluded terrace – the main room of ‘Plas’ is a window-filled, vibrant space, its simple whites, grays, and blacks with wood in the Country style and locally painted abstract colors play works of art. Visitors to the extremely friendly establishment are often greeted with a tough “hello” from head chef / co-owner Jamie George (formerly at Z Cucina di Spirito), who often works hard in the half-open kitchen next to the front door.
Visitors are also greeted by a personable waiter who gives them a platter of home-baked focaccia topped with a compound butter (like chilli coriander or parmesan capers) and toppings like a blackberry gastrique, pickled and roasted fruits and vegetables.
Expectations raised by this taste of ‘plas’ food and approach – handmade but not precious; bold but widely accessible – are further enhanced by scanning a great looking menu made with local and seasonal ingredients. Many of these expectations are met or exceeded, especially with the starters (also known as “pieces”), the best-bang-for-your-buck section of the menu.
It’s August in Ohio, so high-quality tomatoes and corn complement several great and great starters. These include the sweet corn panna cotta ($ 12) – an inspired dish that combines Mexican-style street corn with its reimagined shape as a calming corn pudding; a terrific tomato caprese made from heirlooms with milky homemade mozzarella, pesto-like decorations and a mixture of delicious tomatoes; the deceptively titled “Chopped Turnips” ($ 14) – a huge, healthy, tongue-tingling collection of subdivided cucumbers, peppers, marinated and indulgent vegetable creations and grassy greens, with (uncharacteristically shy) gorgonzola buttermilk vinaigrette drizzle.
Delicious fish, homemade pasta among the starter highlights
Appetizers also present fine ingredients. A fragrant fennel salad, house sesame oil, and ginger formed the thematic bridge between beautiful sashimi-style fish (with a wonderful crust of blackening spices) and ripe fruits like blackberries and peaches in the expensive but delicious fried tuna ($ 38.). ).
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Homemade pasta is offered in several interesting dishes. The extra large “everyday sauce” ($ 25) was an uncompromising production with wonderful pappardelle, a meaty and sour tomato sauce (sour brightness is predominant here), chopped flavors, good-tasting but extra firm meatballs, sausages, peppers, herbs, raisins, What ever.
I liked the “sweet and spicy roast chicken” (US $ 27) at least as much: tender pulled meat and broad noodles with a chilli tip, enriched with a slightly sweet, tangy sauce, enriched with mozzarella and a creamy corn-like garnish.
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My experience wasn’t perfect. While my corn ravioli ($ 26) tasted great, it had structural issues. And a frustratingly long wait for cocktails on a busy night led to the easy-to-drink – but expensive ($ 14) and not particularly nuanced – Zaragoza Zinger (tasted like ginger lemonade) and “Reverse Manhattan” (with an amusing branded ice cube).
Given the many positive qualities of Plas – including the range of home ice cream (USD 7) and appealing, food-friendly wines (the versatile Lambrusco Cantina Settecani for USD 7 a glass with tart berry notes and a light fizzy drink) – such small deficits do Doesn’t detract from the fact that ‘Plas is one of the best Columbus restaurants to open in 2021.
‘Plas eat + drink
Where: 21 E Fifth Ave., Suite 101, Italian Village
Contact: 614-725-5700, www.plasfoodanddrink.com
Hours: 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Monday to Thursday; Friday and Saturday 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Closed on sundays.
Price range: $ 12 to $ 39
Ambience: hip, upbeat and stylish, but no frills restaurant with rustic accents, a semi-open kitchen and a great terrace for the appointment
Children’s menu: no
Reservations: Yes sir
Accessible: yes, with the elevator at the back of the building
License for spirits: full bar
Quick click: a handcrafted sensibility and seasonal farm-to-table aesthetic elevate this fun Short North establishment to the top tier of new Columbus restaurants
